Black and White Cookies

I’m pretty bad when it comes to picking favorites. If you asked me to name my favorite food or favorite book, I would probably bombard you with an endless list of options that could all be considered my top choice. But there is one category in which I could easily pick a favorite, and that’s TV sitcoms. As far as I’m concerned, Seinfeld is by far the greatest sitcom ever made; it’s original, clever, and downright hilarious. Fellow Seinfeld fans may remember the episode in which Jerry and Elaine go to a bakery together and Jerry waxes philosophical about black and white cookies (“look to the cookie”) before eating one makes him sick. If you don’t remember this episode or haven’t seen it, you can catch the highlights here.

According to this New York Times article, Seinfeld solidified the black and white cookie’s status as one of New York’s trademark foods. I actually never encountered a black and white cookie in the times I visited The Big Apple (which is surprising, because I hit the city’s bakeries and I hit them hard) so my first encounter with this iconic pastry was a small, delicate version at a local bakery called Les Madelines that bore little resemblance to the black and white cookie of Seinfeld fame. I’m guessing it’s what black and white cookies would look like in France.

The first time I tasted a real black and white cookie ended up being when I baked them from a recipe found in my Gourmet cookbook last weekend. I could tell from the outset that the black and white would be my type of cookie: a soft, cakey base topped with a simple glaze that imparts a striking visual appeal without being too showy or cute. And while I’m usually a chocolate whore, I found myself enjoying the vanilla side equally (although the two flavors are really best when eaten in the same bite). These cookies may not hold the secret to racial harmony as Jerry claims, but they sure do wonders for a girl’s sweet tooth.

Black and White Cookies (adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook)


When I first made these, I followed the orginal recipe's specifications for cookie size and made them huge. The second time around I went for a medium version (pictured above), which I am more partial to simply because the large ones are a little much unless you're really committed to eating a cookie. But feel free to go with your own preference because I've included directions for both.

The other change I made in this recipe involve the icing, as I'm not too fond of lemon in my baked goods and I thought the process could be a little less hassle-free. I recommend making one of the icings first and frosting the cookies with it before making the other one so that neither one of the icings has a chance to solidify in the bowl.

cookies:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup well-shaken buttermilk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup (5 1/3 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg

Vanilla icing:
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1 to 2 tablespoons hot water

Chocolate icing:
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/8 teaspoon vanilla
1 to 2 tablespoons hot water
1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

1) Whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Stir together buttermilk and vanilla in a cup.
2) Beat together butter and sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes, then add egg, beating until combined well.
3) Mix in flour mixture and buttermilk mixture alternately in batches at low speed (scraping down side of bowl occasionally), beginning and ending with flour mixture. Mix until smooth.
4) For large cookies: Spoon 1/4 cups of batter about 2 inches apart onto a buttered large baking sheet. Bake in middle of oven at 350 until tops are puffed and pale golden, and cookies spring back when touched, 15 to 17 minutes.
For medium cookies: Spoon about 2 tablespoons of batter 2 inches apart onto a buttered large baking sheet. Bake for about ten minutes, or until cookies spring back when touched.
5) Transfer with a metal spatula to a rack and chill (to cool quickly), about 5 minutes (or you could just let them cool at room temp before you frost them if you have the time).
6) When cool, turn cookies flat sides up, then spread white icing over half of each and chocolate over other half (recipe follows).
7) Once cookies are iced, let them sit at room temperature for an hour or so, or until the glaze has set. Store in an airtight container in between sheets of waxed paper.

Vanilla icing:
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1 to 2 tablespoons hot water

Chocolate icing:
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/8 teaspoon vanilla
1 to 2 tablespoons hot water
1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

For vanilla icing: Stir together confectioners sugar, corn syrup, and 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl until smooth (you want it to be the consistency of thick Elmer's glue, so add more or less water accordingly).

For chocolate: Same process as vanilla, only add cocoa in as well and use more hot water to thin to the same consistency as the vanilla icing.

Cookies that contain candy.

OK so I know the holidays are almost over and most of you are sick of sweets, but I had to share a couple of cookie recipes that I made this Christmas season before I forget about them. Incidentally, both of these would be a good way to use up some of that candy you got in your stocking if your haul happened to include candy cane kisses or Rolos (neither of which are that great when eaten plain, in my opinion).

Candy Cane Kiss Cookies (adapted slightly from ourbestbites.com)

(Image courtesy of Our Best Bites)

I made these cookies for a Christmas party with my high school girlfriends and they were a hit. Since then I’ve made them using both the shortening and butter mixture the recipe recommends and just butter alone. I have to say I prefer the butter, since shortening freaks me out a little and it didn’t seem to make that much difference in the texture of the cookie.

1/2 c. butter-flavored shortening
1/2 c. real butter
OR
1 cup butter

1 c. brown sugar
1 c. white sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 tsp peppermint extract
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
2 1/2 c. flour, lightly spooned into measuring cups and leveled with a knife
1/4 c. + 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 1/2 c. dark chocolate chips (semi-sweet)
48 Hershey's Candy Cane Kisses, unwrapped

1) Preheat oven to 350.
2) Cream together softened butter, shortening, brown sugar, and white sugar for 1-2 minutes on medium-high speed or until light and fluffy.
3) Add the eggs and vanilla.
4) Meanwhile, combine the baking powder, baking soda, salt, flour, and cocoa powder. Add to the butter/sugar mixture and mix until combined. Mix in the chocolate chips.
5)Drop the dough by the tablespoonful onto an ungreased baking sheet. Bake for 8-10 minutes, or until the centers are set but still soft.
6)Remove from oven and allow to cool for 1 minute. Top each cookie with an unwrapped Candy Cane Kiss. Allow to cool completely, long enough for the Kiss to harden. If necessary, after the cookies have cooled, they can be placed in the refrigerator or freezer to re-solidify the Kiss

Rolo Cookies (from the Ivory Favorites cookbook)

I originally bought Rolos intending to make an entirely different treat, but after finding out that peanut butter is literally the only flavor of M&Ms not available in holiday colors (a fact that seriously baffled me) I had to put the kaibosh on that idea. These cookies were a more than adequate substitute.

2 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup cocoa
1 cup butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Bag of Rolo candies, unwrapped
2 Tbsp. sugar for rolling the cookie dough balls in (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees .

2. In a medium bowl combine flour, baking soda, salt, and cocoa. Set aside.

3. With a mixer, cream butter and sugars together until smooth.

Add eggs and vanilla and mix well.

4. Slowly add flour mixture to sugar mixture and blend well.

5. Using your hands, shape dough into small balls (mine were about the size of a ping pong ball, maybe a little smaller).

6. Press Rolo into center of ball and cover with dough.

7. Roll dough ball in sugar ( I skipped this step because I’m not a fan of that sugary texture) and place on an ungreased cookie sheet.

8. Bake cookies for 8-10 minutes, until tops of cookies are slightly cracked.

9. Remove from oven and let sit on cookie sheet for 3-5 minutes. Move to a cooling rack and cool completely.

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies

There are many things to love about autumn: the beautiful leaves, crisp air, football season, the return of sweaters and boots into your wardrobe, etc. Mike pointed out another one a few nights ago when, as I was taking yet another tray of cookies out of the oven, he breathed a sigh of contentment and said “I’m so glad it’s baking season again.” Apparently at my house fall has come to be known as “baking season.”

The amount of baking I do in the summer tends to be minimal. Probably because I’d rather spend any free time doing other non-indoor activities, and frozen yogurt or a snow cone always sounds like a better cure for a sweet tooth in the hot summer months than a rich cookie or brownie. However, the moment the thermostat drops and the sun starts to set long before bedtime, you will often find me in the kitchen looking for an excuse to transform butter, sugar, and flour into something tasty. Luckily fall happens to be my favorite time of year to go running, otherwise it might also become known as the Season in Which I Buy Bigger Pants.

Usually my token fall pumpkin recipe is this bread, but last weekend I decided to try these cookies after my sister recommended the recipe. Prior to making these I had never tasted a pumpkin chocolate chip cookie that I truly loved. Most were too bland, some were too dry, others were ridiculously over-spiced. This recipe struck the perfect balance, and my goldilocks-like search for the perfect pumpkin chocolate chip cookie came to an end. I’ll probably make them a few more times before Thanksgiving comes around. After all, it is baking season.

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies


1 ½ cups canned pumpkin
1 egg
1 tsp. vanilla
½ cup vegetable oil
1 tsp. nutmeg
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking powder
1 ½ cups sugar
½ tsp. salt
2 ½ cups flour
¾ cup chocolate chips (you can use milk or semi-sweet, I used a mixture of both. And I probably used about a cup, maybe a little more)

1) In a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients except flour and chocolate chips. Mix well.
2) Add flour and mix to combine.
3) Stir in chocolate chips.
4) Drop by spoonful onto greased cookie sheets.
5) Bake at 350 for about 15-17 minutes.*

*When it comes to cookies, I am usually paranoid about overbaking. Nothing worse than a dry, crunchy cookie, right? Well in this case I would actually be more worried about underbaking, as these cookies will be pretty gooey if you don’t bake them long enough and, because they are so moist, it’s hard to overbake them. I left mine in for about 17 minutes as opposed to the 15 the recipe called for and that worked perfectly.

Leslie's chocolate chip cookies

I am convinced that the world would be a better place if everyone had neighbors like the Knaphus family. Theirs is the kind of home where the whole neighborhood is routinely invited over for scone parties on Sunday afternoons, donuts are fried up in the driveway every Halloween, and on any given day the living room couches are filled with various neighbors and friends dropping by to visit. Last summer the K-naps got a snow cone machine, and ever since you will find their front lawn teeming with kids and families on hot summer nights. A small block party that the Knaphuses threw a few years ago in their driveway has evolved into Hollystock, an annual event that requires the closure of a whole street due to the high turnout. It truly is the stuff of simpler times.

I was lucky enough to grow up across the street from the Knaphuses. My siblings and I are good friends with their boys and our family still congregates at their home frequently. No matter how large or small the occasion, be it Christmas Eve or a Utah football game, one element of these gatherings is constant: the food is amazing. Besides being some of the nicest people you will ever meet, Chris and Leslie are both fantastic cooks. I drool at the memory of Chris’ marinated tri-tip steak and look forward to the Superbowl every year not because of the game but because it means I will get to have some of Leslie’s delicious Superbowl bread (it’s essentially a giant cinnamon roll in the shape of a football but somehow tastes so much better than a normal cinnamon roll).

One trademark of Knaphus cooking is Leslie’s chocolate chip cookies. They are found at virtually every Knaphus function and are known by most people as “Leslie cookies.” I have yet to meet a person that does not love them. When I got married Leslie threw me a bridal shower and gave me her tricks of the trade: baking sheets, parchment paper liners, a cookie scoop, and the recipe for these cookies. I had to laugh when I noticed that her recipe yielded about eight dozen of these suckers. I guess you don’t become my favorite family in the neighborhood by running out of cookies.

I’ve been trying to figure out what makes Leslie’s cookies so good and it comes down to this: In my opinion, chocolate chip cookies fall into two camps. There are the rich, buttery ones loaded with semisweet chocolate that are amazing when warm but taste a little too heavy once they’ve cooled down, and then there are what I call “cookie jar” cookies- the ones that taste a little less intense at first and therefore age much better. Leslie cookies are pretty much the ideal form of this type of cookie. I’m thinking what makes that the case is the use of milk chocolate chips and the addition of instant oats to the equation. For those of you thinking “she didn’t mention that this was an oatmeal chocolate chip cookie recipe”, let me state that I ate these for years without ever suspecting they contained anything of the sort. I’m guessing most connoisseurs of Leslie cookies would say the same. Because the oats in this recipe are instant and not the heartier rolled oats, they impart a subtle grainy flavor to balance out all the butter and sugar without changing the texture of the cookie. But don’t just take my word for it, go ahead and make a batch. And, if you feel like taking a page out of Leslie’s book, go share them with your neighbors.

Leslie’s Chocolate Chip Cookies

Don’t worry, I halved the original recipe so you won’t end up with a ton of cookies. This yields about 3-4 dozen. Also, the recipe Leslie gave me called for rolled oats but she told me that she always uses instant so I’ve made that change in my copy.

2 sticks softened butter (1 cup)
1 cup brown sugar
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
Scant 3 cups flour
1 tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. salt
1 cup instant oats
1 (12 oz.) bag milk chocolate chips ( I like Guittard brand)

1) Cream butter and sugar
2) Add eggs and vanilla and mix until incorporated
3) Add flour, soda, salt, and oats
4) Stir in chocolate chips
5) Drop by rounded tablespoons (or use a cookie scoop- mine is about 1 ½ tablespoons) onto an ungreased cookie sheet.
6) Bake at 350 for about ten minutes, or until bottoms of cookies are lightly browned.